Rose Water?

When I first saw the delicious little French macarons at Ladurée in Paris, I was immediately taken by their rainbow display of flavors. All the usual suspects were present: chocolate, vanilla, strawberry, caramel, but one flavor in particular stood out: rose.

While I was aware that rose was often used in perfumes and occasionally in confectioneries like Turkish delight (which I also love), I had no idea that it was also used in baking. The flavor was so light and fragrant that it inspired me to investigate!

I wasn’t surprised to find out that rose water has been used in food for hundreds if not thousands of years in the Middle East and Asia and that it has cultural and religious significance for many. The water itself is a by-product of the production of rose oil, which is primarily used in perfumes and cosmetics.

After coming across a few recipes, I decided to try making some myself. Rose water and syrup can be a great addition to tea, and desserts like ice cream, rice pudding, crème brûlée, whipped cream, etc.

Here’s what you need to make a simple rose water or syrup:

- A large stainless steel pot with a rounded lid

- A brick (yes, a brick) or a Pyrex loaf pan

- The equivalent of a bag of ice

- About 4 or 5 cups of fresh, rinsed rose petals (depending on the size of your pot), slightly crushed or chopped

- A small bowl or ramekin

* Begin by placing the brick or Pyrex dish in the center of the pot

* Distribute the petals around the brick and cover with water to the level of the brick or higher

* Place the small bowl on top of the brick and place the lid upside-down on the pot

* Bring the water to a gentle boil and cover the lid of the pot with ice

* As the water condenses it should drip down the lid and collect in the bowl

* Check it every so often and collect what is your rose water!

* You can now make simple syrup by adding sugar (and more water if necessary) and reducing by simmering gently in a pan

Finish with a little red food coloring if you'd like to give it the rose look, but any other color would taste as sweet…

GG

Happy Holidays from the Global Gourmand!

Thank you to everyone who's been following me this year! Your input and support is greatly appreciated! 

May your 2011 be a happy year of culinary experimentation!

Galeries Lafayette - Paris

GG

The advantages of working full-time

So I recently started a new full-time gig. Despite the obvious bonus of a regular paycheck, I haven't had as much the time as I'd like to experiment with recipes, find new ingredients, and so forth. C'est la vie right?

One unexpected advantage however is that the girl has really stepped up to the plate so to speak in the dinner department. An occasional cook, mostly she's infamous for her specialty of cold pasta sauce on capellini. Originally I thought I was being clever when I challenged her to make 3 consecutive meals in 'pie-form' (basically hoping to secure 3 nights of dinner). Not only did she do it, but she's continued to cook a few times a week... without incitement!

Although it's pretty sweet to come home to a cooked meal once in a while, I fear that if I don't get back in there that I'll soon be writing for her. Here's a streamlined coq au vin she whipped up last week. I know, I don't get it either.

Here's what you need:

- 1 bottle of red wine (Burgundy)

- 1 medium onion, chopped

- 4 cloves garlic, minced

- A handful of button mushrooms, chopped

- A piece (or 2) of chicken per person - thighs or drumsticks, with skin

- 5 or 6 pieces of bacon, chopped

- All purpose flour

- About 1/2 a liter of chicken stock

- Thyme, parsley (fresh if possible)

- Tablespoon of butter

- Olive oil

- Salt and pepper

* In a plastic bag, marinate the chicken in enough wine to cover the meat. This can be done overnight or even a couple hours before cooking

* In a large pan or dutch over, saute the bacon until crispy, set aside

* In the same pan, cook the chicken skin side down until browned, set aside

* Saute the onion and garlic until translucent, add about a tablespoon of flour and brown lightly

* Deglaze the pan with a good splash of wine, and add pinches of thyme, parsley, salt and pepper

* Once simmering, add the marinating liquid with equal parts chicken stock, return the chicken to the pot, and simmer until the sauce thickens. Like with boeuf bourguignon, if you find that the liquid is evaporating too quickly, reduce the heat or cover the pot

* In a separate pan, saute the button mushrooms with a bit of butter or olive oil and set aside

* Towards the end of cooking, add the mushrooms and bacon to the mix and simmer further

* You'll probably need to simmer for an hour or so, turning the chicken occasionally

Not bad for a Wednesday night!

GG

Mashed Potatoes à la Française

Mentioning Aligot in my last post really got my thinking about it. When people ask me what about French cuisine they should experience, Aligot is definitely right up at the top of the list. It's also one of the dishes that I insist on my visiting friends trying. In the Auvergne region of France, Aligot often prepared in huge pots and sold in town.

So what is Aligot exactly?

It's basically mashed potatoes, but with a delicious twist. These potatoes are pureed with crème fraiche, garlic, and Tomme cheese to become dense, silky, and flavorful. Aligot is the right consistency when it can literally be cut with a knife.

Here's what you need:

- 2 pounds of potatoes, peeled and cut

- 2 or 3 cloves of garlic, mashed or minced finely

- 1/2 a stick of unsalted butter

- 2 cups of crème fraiche - thicker and less sour than sour cream - can be made at home with buttermilk and heavy cream

- Tomme cheese in thin slices, about half of the amount of potatoes - can be substituted for Cantal, or other semi-hard strong cheeses

- 1 cup, approximately, of skim or 1% milk

- Salt and pepper

* Boil the potatoes in salted water until fork tender, drain and return to the pot

* Mash the potatoes on low heat until fluffy with the butter, garlic, and salt and pepper to taste

* Incorporate the crème fraiche and mix evenly

* Raise the heat slightly and add the Tomme, a little at a time, until it's all mixed and melted evenly

* Stir regularly while trying not to break up the cheese strands. If the mix becomes too thick, add milk, a few tablespoons at a time

* The final product will be smooth like mashed potatoes and slightly stringy, serve immediately!

For a traditional Auvergne dish, pair it with sausage, duck confit, or steak, and garnish with parsley or chives.

GG

Know your French cheeses!

France has long been synonymous with cheese, and with good reason. It's serious business here. Many cheeses carry the AOC designation, or 'Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée'. Like Italy's DOC and Canada's VQA, this designation specifies that the product has been prepared in a traditional way and in a traditional region (think Champagne, Dijon, and Chianti). Here's the skinny on a few French cheeses I've learned to love - in alphabetical order as not to offend the French. Being the wine snob at the dinner party is overrated. Be the cheese snob.

Bleu - Classic blue cheese is well known. Various cheese can be called 'bleu' after the right culture has been added to the mix, often Roquefort, Gorgonzola, or Stilton. Known for their pungent flavor, creamy texture, and of course, color. Great with salads or melted on a burger.

Brebis - Named for its origin, Brebis can be any cheese made from sheep's milk. Brebis is often buttery, smooth and pungent.

Brie - From the region of Brie, Brie is a soft, creamy, white cheese, cut into rounds.

Camembert - Similar to (but not the same as) Brie, Camembert is from the North of France. Traditionally made with unpasteurized milk, Camembert is also soft and creamy with a slight hint of ammonia. The classic apéro cheese, it's a good one to learn to like! 

Cantal - Cantal is a harder cheese, from central France. Almost like cheddar, Cantal has a strong creamy taste (depending on its age). Old Cantal can be pretty strong tasting so maybe opt for a fresher one. Cantal is great for recipes too.

Chèvre - Creamy goat's milk cheese, Chèvre is another French classic. Various kinds exist in France. One of my favorites, tart Chèvre is great on crackers with a sweet onion confit.

Mimolette - Probably the closest thing to Cheddar that the French have, Mimolette is a hard orange cheese from the North of France. It tastes somewhat like Parmesan.

Saint André - Like a very strong Brie, Saint Andre can take a bit of getting used to. It is also very creamy and rich.

Saint-Nectaire - A more nutty flavor, Saint-Nectaire is another common addition to a cheese board.

Tomme - From the French Alps, tomme is fairly dense and dry. Tomme is also the key ingredient in one of my favorite French dishes, Aligot.

This is just the tip of the iceberg, go try them!

GG

The Jamaican Side Dish

As rich and delicious as French food is, I can't help but miss the things I can get back home that I just can't find here. A big one for me is Caribbean food. Unfortunately, the fact that France has several Caribbean departments doesn't contribute to the availability of said food. As if by divine intervention, just when I thought I couldn't bear it any longer, a bottle of jerk sauce and a recipe for rice and peas miraculously appeared at my door... or maybe it was the girl coming back from a trip to Toronto. Either way, I now had the means to satisfy my craving.

Here's what you need for some real rice and peas:

- 1 1/2 cups dried kidney beans (soak them for at least 4 hours)
- 2 cloves of garlic, crushed
- 1/2 cup of coconut milk
- 1 scotch bonnet pepper, whole
- 3 sprigs of green onion
- 1 large teaspoon of thyme
- 1 1/2 cups of white rice

* Drop the beans into a pan with the crushed garlic, and add enough water to cover them by a centimeter or so
* Simmer until they're cooked - they're done when they break easily between your fingers (1 hour)
* Once the beans are cooked, add the coconut milk, green onions, whole pepper, rice, thyme, and bring to a boil with the pot covered
* Once most of the liquid is absorbed, the rice should be nicely cooked (if you're having trouble getting the liquid amount right, you can always drain off some of the excess, or add water)
* Remove the pepper, sprigs of onion, and serve

The only thing more difficult to find in Paris than Caribbean food is a barbecue, but the marinated chicken still turned out pretty well in the oven.

GG

The French Press

My good friend Michaela and I were chatting recently about the French press. She told me that not only did she have one, but that she'd been really wanting to master it. I suggested that she not only master it but write about it. Here's the result:

On the day that this piece goes to press, coffee drinkers nationwide (that nation being the USA) will raise their lattes, macchiato, and drip brews in celebration of National Coffee Day. From truck stops to college cafeterias, highbrow baristas to amateur home brewers, Americans are crazy about their coffee. In light of this fact, I wish to share with you my recent experimentation with the French press.

For months (years?) this inconspicuous little device has had a home on my kitchen counter. Pushed aside for an opening microwave door, or placed on top of a recipe printout as a paperweight, my French press was more ornamental than functional. Living in the heart of New York City, I am surrounded by amazing coffee shops from which to get my caffeine fix. Until recently, it hadn’t even crossed my mind to actually MAKE a cup chez moi.

After discovering that my single-cup coffee maker from college had met its maker, I turned my attention to the French press - to test it out and share the results. Thus, armed with some basic instruction, I set out to brew some chicory coffee that I had picked up on a trip to New Orleans. Like the press, this coffee had served more of an ornamental purpose (love that retro, yellow tin!).

Then it began. Carefully measuring 3 heaping tablespoons of grounds, I added 12 ounces (4 ounces for each tablespoon) of pre-boiled water (part direction-instructed and part my own know-it-all-ness) until the grounds were saturated. Next, I poked the mixture down with the back of a wooden spoon (fancy equipment keep back!) until a rich froth-like substance formed. I left it to steep with the top in place, the knobbed handle pulled straight up (don’t even think of pressing those grounds yet!). I paced in my kitchen for the suggested 3-5 minutes, however after 3.5 minutes, I was ready to press - the smell was too tantalizing. I steadily pressed the knobbed handle down and watched the grounds separate from the brew. Then, I poured. “Potent!” was what I labeled the creation, even for black, dairy/soy free coffee. “Ground free,” was my next observation, as I wasn’t initially convinced that the stopper would work. “Delicious,” I then remarked, noting both the taste and the smell that mildly engulfed my kitchen.

I felt triumphant, as though I had grown and harvested the beans myself. The physical, hands-on nature of French pressing is infinitely more satisfying than punching a few buttons on a coffee machine. After my second attempt a few days later with some awesome Italian coffee, I found myself equally enthusiastic about the process. This time, I lightened it up with some fresh heavy cream, which made for a cup more suited to my taste.

There you have it, dear reader, my foray into the world of the French press. So dust off that statuesque beauty (it makes for a lousy bookend) and get to brewing. CHEERS!

Michaela Johnson currently lives, eats, and works in New York City.

The Perfect Grilled Cheese!

Grilled cheese is the classic American sandwich. Of course in its original incarnation, composed of wonder bread, cheese slices, and cooked in a pan, the grilled cheese contained neither cheese nor bread and wasn't even grilled. The beautiful thing about the grilled cheese is that its simple nature makes it super customizable. It's no surprise that like so many other cheap dishes, the grilled cheese has joined the gourmet ranks with restaurants using all manner of fancy cheeses, breads, oils, and ingredients.

For me, the grilled cheese will always remind me of the occasional Sunday lunch as a kid. My mom's were always perfect in my mind, nothing special, just good. Today they're still the perfect Sunday lunch, especially after a particularly long Saturday night.

A perfect grilled cheese really is an art form, and if not done right, it's a little too easy to end up with a cold cheese and carbon sandwich. Here's how to get it right every time.

* Start by warming your pan to just over MEDIUM heat

* Liberally butter (no margarine!) both the pan and one side of one of the pieces of bread all the way to the crust. Let the butter come up to room temperature for easy spreading, or warm it slightly in the pan

* Place the first buttered piece of bread in the pan, and immediately top with cheese. If you're using a lot of hard cheese, it might be a good idea to get a lid on it, but I find that this is usually unnecessary unless you're using too much heat

* As the cheese melts, butter the other piece of bread and assemble your sandwich

* By the time you're ready to flip, it should be almost the perfect color on the bottom

* Continue to cook until golden on both sides! 

Some tips? A grilled cheese shouldn't be healthy. Save the brown bread for turkey sandwiches because it just doesn't caramelize like white. If you want to switch it up, I find that thick challah or brioche work particularly well. You can also try sourdough, but nothing beats a fresh croissant or even French toast grilled cheese if you're feeling particularly gluttonous. Experiment with cheeses, but always remember to grate them or cut them thinly. Soft cheeses will melt faster, so a combination of soft and thinly cut hard cheese is great. Think about flavor too - if you're using a strong cheese like blue or chevre, it might be nice to balance it with a milder cheese like Camembert or brie. In my mind though, nothing works better than a good sharp cheddar. If you're looking to add some other ingredients (basil, bacon, spinach, etc), it's best to cook both pieces of bread at the same time with a little cheese on both. That way the sandwich will stick around the ingredient and wont fall apart when you bite it.

Happy 'grilling',

GG

La Grande Epicerie

It's no secret that I've got a weakness for upscale markets - one stop shops for superior local artisanal products and hard to find imports. New York is a haven for these, and Toronto's got a few good ones too. 

In France, the prevailing culinary dogma is one of quality and local freshness - something North Americans are willing to pay extra for. For the most part, 'farm to table' isn't anything special, it's just the way it's done.

That being said, the French love American culture (though they'll never tell you that). Therefore, it goes without saying that in the wealthiest areas of Paris, you're bound to find some pretty amazing shops.

Le Bon Marché, or 'The Good Market', is known as the World's first department store. Officially starting around 1850, today it's a main attraction for shoppers looking for a little something by Louis Vuitton or Chanel. Obviously that can work up quite an appetite, so the natural thing to do is to go next door to the Grande Epicerie.

La Grande Epicerie is the very definition of the upscale market. Being so very French, everything is about image. The store features beautiful displays, which often mirror the theme of the window displays at Le Bon Marché. Special products are one of a kind and often very whimsical - Coca-Cola bottles featuring the silhouette of Karl Lagerfeld, Orangina bottles sold in limited edition bags by Antik Batik, a range of condiments made to look like hair products, Eiffel tower noodles, and Swarovski-encrusted water bottles are not uncommon. Part of the store is dedicated to products of the World, and the American section is comprised of molasses, maple syrup, chocolate chips, barbecue sauce, popcorn, peanut butter, and marshmallow fluff.

Karl Lagerfeld Coca-Cola

Got water?

Selection of jams

Balsamic vinegar - I snapped this after being told to put the camera away or leave

While you're not likely to be doing your weekly grocery shopping there, as many normal products are available elsewhere for a fraction of the price, it's a great place to get gifts for the foodies in your life. To me, the value lies in their mouth-watering prepared foods, beautiful pastries, hard to find ingredients for your dinner parties, and not to mention the browsing potential of the place. After all, who doesn't get some sick pleasure out of checking out bottles of champagne worth thousands of euros and bags of dried morel mushrooms that cost as much as a normal shopping trip.

GG

La Grande Epicerie de Paris

38 Rue de Sèvres

Paris, 75007
01 44 39 81 00

Nonna's pizza... or is it Yia Yia's?

In keeping with the Italian theme lately, I just scored my good friend's highly guarded pizza recipe. I told him I'd keep it anonymous while putting it online for the 'World' to see. He makes a pretty convincing Italian pizza for a Greek guy. Wait, did the Greeks or the Italians invent pizza? I'm going to stay out of that one...

Here's what you need for 2 pizzas:

-1 bag of dough from your local grocery, if you don't make your own that is
- At least a pint of tomato sauce (homemade of course)
- Quarter white onion, sliced
- Hot Soppressata (50g, sliced)
- Prosciutto (50g, sliced)
- Provolone and mozzarella (1 ball each, shredded)
- Salt, pepper, olive oil

- Mozzarella di bufala (1 ball, sliced)
- Arugula

* Cut the dough your grandmother made with love in half, respectfully
* Sprinkle a bit of flour on the counter top and flatten the dough (thin!) with a roller
* Flour your ceramic pizza stone and lay the dough on it. Yes, an oven pan will do, I guess

* Let the dough rise in the cold oven for 40-50 minutes

* Remove the dough, spread a desired amount of sauce onto it and season with salt and pepper

* Cover with a desired amount of shredded cheese, onions, and soppressata

* Bake at 375 until the dough is cooked but before the cheese starts to brown too much

* Remove the pizza, shut off the oven, add the mozzarella slices and throw it back in until the cheese has melted

* Take it out again, add arugula, prosciutto, and a sprinkling of olive oil (if there's not enough oil from the meat)

Bellissimo! How do you say that in Greek?

GG

Truffles, not just a box of chocolates

Up until somewhat recently, when I heard the term 'truffle' my mind would immediately turn to a rich little chocolate you could buy someone special when you had a reason to say sorry.

Now however, I think of a little black or white fungus. Often referred to as 'the diamond of the kitchen', if you happened to have the same amount in weight as your candy, you'd probably be better off saying sorry with a piece of jewelry instead.

So what is a truffle exactly? Is it really worthy of its status in the kitchen or is it brought to us by the same group of 'connoisseurs' that have the rich pretending to enjoy roe and civet coffee?

A truffle is a fungus that grows off the roots of various trees. Sounds appealing right? Well they are to a lot of people, some of whom will pay as much as $4,000 a pound for this little mushroom, or more commonly, about 100 dollars for one the size of a golf ball. Our fascination with truffles and the willingness of a select few to pay through the nose for them goes back to antiquity.

Truffle searching is usually carried out with the help of man's best friend, or in many cases, pigs. It's been shown that truffles produce the same pheromone that is emitted by boars, which is why pigs are usually the beast of choice for this operation. They are however likely to devour the tuber upon its discovery, so it's risky (but profitable) business.

So why are they so valued? I think most of it comes down to a mix of basic economics and the mystique that surrounds them. Last month I decided to spring for the 30 euro black truffle risotto at an Italian restaurant near us and I hedonistically loved every minute of it. They are earthy, peppery, and woody. Would I have missed them if they weren't there? Probably not for the flavor, but definitely for the experience.

Want to see if you'd even like the taste? Try buying a small bottle of truffle oil instead (which probably won't have any truffle in it) for considerably less money, and use it in your cooking. Try it over pasta, salads, risotto, soups, or hey, even in your scrambled eggs or drizzled over some popcorn in front of the TV.

Hope it's a good movie!

GG

Risotto - not so hard after all

Risotto is one of those dishes that's considered a good test of your competency in the kitchen. For a while I avoided trying it, assuming it would be either too difficult or not even worth the effort. 

Just last week, an Italian cook I work with showed me his method and I thought, is that it? I finally gave it a go myself and I was happy to have been proven wrong. While I can see where risotto gets its reputation for being a great equalizer, the trick to pulling it off is to just be attentive (read: stir NON STOP).

Here's what you need for about 4 people:

- 250g of short grain rice (Arborio)

- Half a white onion, finely chopped

- 1 clove of garlic, minced

- 200ml of dry white wine

- About a litre of chicken stock, heated and left on the back burner

- 35g (or more if you like) of grated Parmesan

- 35g of butter

- Pepper, olive oil

*Begin by lightly sauteing the onion in a mixture of butter and olive oil, just until the onion is translucent

*Add the garlic and saute for another minute

*Drop the rice into the pan and toast with the onion and garlic for a couple minutes until the rice appears clear

*When toasted, deglaze the pan with the white wine and incorporate it into the rice

*As the wine starts to evaporate, slowly add warm stock, about 2 ladles worth

*Here comes the 'hard part' - As the rice cooks with the stock, you want there to be enough liquid in the pan for the rice to cook, but never too much. Only add more stock as the stock in the pan evaporates. By the time the rice is cooked to al dente, you will have used almost a litre of stock. Expect to use at least 750ml. Throughout this period (about 20 minutes) you will need to stir constantly and gently

*When the rice finally reaches desired texture, you can add your Parmesan and fold in the butter. The final product should be moist, but with no extra liquid on the plate. If it's a bit dry, add a small amount of stock. You can now incorporate any other ingredients you'd like to include. Season with a little pepper (you probably won't need salt)

Risotto can be a bit heavy as a side dish, so keep portions small or even serve it as the main. Traditionally, if you're doing a seafood risotto, you'd omit the Parmesan. I added a bit of prosciutto and spinach to mine and served it with crab cakes and sauteed asparagus. If you're feeling really hedonistic, try drizzling some truffle oil on the plate or topping it with truffle shavings!

GG

Breakfast in America... in Paris

Imagine traveling 6000 km to end up working at a good old American diner?

If you're in Paris any time soon, come check me out at Breakfast in America in the Marais. After a couple weeks in Paris, I guarantee you'll be craving a good burger, a big stack of pancakes, or a real milkshake.

GG

Breakfast in America

4 Rue Malher
Paris, 75004
01 42 72 40 21

La Mercerie

I've realized that my Paris restaurant recommendations have been lacking, so here we go.

Living in a land of dainty pastries, soft baguettes, and small savory appetizers, there are a few things I start to miss. The thing I miss the most is a good thick steak à l'Américaine.

I first went to La Mercerie last year on a recommendation and loved it. The atmosphere (and the food for that matter) is almost medieval. The dining room is reminiscent of a Viking lodge - tight and dark with big wooden ceiling beams and tables. The cuts of meat are served on well-used wooden platters and are accompanied by mountains of fries. I think part of the reason I like it so much is because it reminds me of my favorite, and now defunct, steak spot in Toronto - Carman's.

While you can get an entrecôte - a common French flat rib steak, or even a thicker style pavé de boeuf, since you are in France after all, I highly recommend trying the magret de canard, or duck breast. If you're not a fan of duck, it just means that you haven't had good duck. Cooked on a grill, the only hint that you're eating duck breast and not steak is the presence of a fat cap, which you can remove if you're so inclined. Make sure you order your meat saignant or à point - rare or medium rare.

La Mercerie isn't for fancy bistro food (a good friend describes the cooking method for the roast chicken as 'by landmine') but it is the place to get a great, no frills Gallic meal.

Once your lamb shank has been put down, you can still indulge in a bit of dessert. Try the Mont Blanc, or white mountain, which consists of a base of very sweet chestnut purée and is topped with crème fraîche. It may take a couple bites for those who have never had it to acquire the taste, but it's delicious, and one is easily enough for two people to share.

Chestnut purée

As a bonus, La Mercerie is also next door to one of the best bars in Paris, but you'll just have to go to find that out. 

GG

La Mercerie

9 Rue des Canettes

Paris, 75006

01 43 25 31 09

Bolognese sauce for your perfect spaghetti

So now that you can all make perfect pasta, you just need a good meat sauce to go with it, right?

This one comes from home. Every couple months or so, a giant pot appears on the stove and the result is delicious pasta sauce in the freezer for weeks. I'm not really sure where this recipe came from, but it's a pretty convincing traditional bolognese.

Here's what you need:

- 1 large onion, finely chopped

- 3 cloves of garlic, finely chopped

- 3 celery stalks, chopped

- 1 or 2 carrots, thinly sliced

- 2 lbs ground beef

- 1 large tablespoon of tomato paste

- 1 large can crushed tomatoes

- 1 cup red wine

- 1 cup beef stock

- 1 cup of milk (optional)

- Olive oil, salt and pepper

- Thyme, oregano, pinch of cinnamon, bay leaf

- Teaspoon or so of sugar

* In a large pot, heat a tablespoon of olive oil and begin cooking your mirepoix (celery, carrot, onion)

* When the onion becomes translucent, add the garlic and continue to cook

* When the garlic begins to sweat, add your beef, season, and cook until no longer pink

* When cooked, add the tomato paste, can of tomatoes, and mix well

* Deglaze the pot with red wine and add pinches of thyme, oregano, cinnamon, and your bay leaf

* After allowing the wine to reduce slightly, add the beef stock and milk (or water if necessary)

* Add the sugar, seasoning to taste, and simmer for as long as you like! (at least an hour)
* When done, the sauce should be thick and meaty, without a lot of liquid

You can make this days in advance and freeze it if you like. It's also a great sauce for your homemade lasagna!

GG

Cooking 101: Pasta

I'm always surprised when someone doesn't know how to cook. That being said, I don't think that everyone needs to know how to churn out perfect cheese souffles or Christmas hams. I do think however that one should at least be able to feed themselves, and maybe even another person too, without the need of a can opener and a microwave!

Let's start with pasta. Spaghetti and tomato sauce is one of those easy dishes that can just as easily become mush in red sauce. It is very easy to overcook pasta, but 'Al dente' is the only way to go. Anything cooked past that belongs with mushy peas in a glass bottle with a baby on it.

Begin by boiling liberally salted water - a lot of it - in a covered pot. Using a big pot with a lot of water helps the pasta heat evenly and keeps it from clumping. By seasoning the water, the pasta will absorb some salt while cooking, and don't worry, it won't taste salty.

Once boiling, add the pasta and lower the heat slightly. Knowing how much pasta to make just comes with experience. Anyone who's made pasta before knows that an unwatched pot always boils over. Cook your pasta until it's soft but with a firm core, stirring often. I slightly under-cook my pasta because I always finish it with sauce in a saute pan.

While your pasta is cooking, get your sauce ready. I always like to quickly saute some mushrooms, onions, and/or zucchini in olive oil before warming my sauce in the same pan. Little things like this always help pick up an otherwise boring dish, especially when you're not using Nona's bolognese. Prepping the sauce while your pasta is cooking means that your pasta won't sit around and clump up. Traditionally, there should be enough sauce to coat the pasta, not for it to swim in; but when the sauce is delicious, I always like to add a bit more.

When ready, drain your pasta well. Do not rinse! When you rinse it, you rinse away the starch that helps the sauce stick. If you're making carbonara, always keep some of the cooking water to add moisture. There's no need to add olive oil to your pasta now. Adding oil now only makes the noodles slippery and keeps the sauce from sticking - plus there's already oil in your sauce.

Add your pasta to the pan and incorporate it into the sauce with tongs. Saute just long enough for the noodles to finish cooking and serve immediately. Finish it up with some real Parmesan and maybe some sun-dried tomatoes. Just that easy!

GG

History, Sugar Coated

As many of you know, there was once a time when sugar was the most expensive and difficult to obtain of white powders consumed recreationally. As I sit at a cafe sipping my 3 euro espresso after yet another lunch of sweet beets, I can't help but think of what a wonderful little thing this sugar is, and how often I take it for granted. Between sugar trips, I nervously and frantically ponder how it came to be that I'm able to consume sugar in France in first place. As an 18th century pickpocket however, I do lament current sugar prices, as it is much more elementary to purloin sugar for specie than silverware and bone china. I jest.

Like with so many old commodities, sugar tells a pretty interesting story. By tracing the history of sugar, you trace a 'recent' history of the East and West, through conquest, trade, and colonization.

It's thought that sugarcane originated in Polynesia and spread to India. After India was invaded in the 6th century by Persia, sugar eventually made its way to the Middle East through subsequent invasions of Persia by Arab armies. The Arabs in turn carried it with them as they conquered North Africa and Spain.

Flash forward a couple years to the 11th century, when sugar became known to Western Europe by means of the Crusades. It's likely that sugar became a hit because crusading is known to build up quite an appetite. The uninvited guests were probably happy to partake in the consumption of a sweet treat or two.

Sugar continued to expand throughout Europe in the following centuries, but still remained a very expensive luxury item. Honey (which was still expensive), or more likely, fruit, was otherwise used for sweetening food. Eventually sugarcane made its way to the New World with Columbus, who got it by means of a fling with the ruler of the Canary Islands, where he made a quick stop before hopping the old Atlantic.

As for France, they were forced to rely on British imports of sugar because of the Kingdom's control of the Caribbean. Sugar was very heavily taxed, and so was the rum that resulted from it. In 1747, sugar beet was first used as a source of sugar, but cane sugar still predominated until the Napoleonic wars, when Britain blocked sugar from the rest of Europe. Napoleon, not wanting any of it anyway, single-handedly started the beet sugar industry, which still provides as much as 30% of the world's sugar.

I realize that I've now made two separate drug references in two consecutive posts. Don't worry Mom, everything is fine in Paris.

GG