Truffles, not just a box of chocolates

Up until somewhat recently, when I heard the term 'truffle' my mind would immediately turn to a rich little chocolate you could buy someone special when you had a reason to say sorry.

Now however, I think of a little black or white fungus. Often referred to as 'the diamond of the kitchen', if you happened to have the same amount in weight as your candy, you'd probably be better off saying sorry with a piece of jewelry instead.

So what is a truffle exactly? Is it really worthy of its status in the kitchen or is it brought to us by the same group of 'connoisseurs' that have the rich pretending to enjoy roe and civet coffee?

A truffle is a fungus that grows off the roots of various trees. Sounds appealing right? Well they are to a lot of people, some of whom will pay as much as $4,000 a pound for this little mushroom, or more commonly, about 100 dollars for one the size of a golf ball. Our fascination with truffles and the willingness of a select few to pay through the nose for them goes back to antiquity.

Truffle searching is usually carried out with the help of man's best friend, or in many cases, pigs. It's been shown that truffles produce the same pheromone that is emitted by boars, which is why pigs are usually the beast of choice for this operation. They are however likely to devour the tuber upon its discovery, so it's risky (but profitable) business.

So why are they so valued? I think most of it comes down to a mix of basic economics and the mystique that surrounds them. Last month I decided to spring for the 30 euro black truffle risotto at an Italian restaurant near us and I hedonistically loved every minute of it. They are earthy, peppery, and woody. Would I have missed them if they weren't there? Probably not for the flavor, but definitely for the experience.

Want to see if you'd even like the taste? Try buying a small bottle of truffle oil instead (which probably won't have any truffle in it) for considerably less money, and use it in your cooking. Try it over pasta, salads, risotto, soups, or hey, even in your scrambled eggs or drizzled over some popcorn in front of the TV.

Hope it's a good movie!

GG

Risotto - not so hard after all

Risotto is one of those dishes that's considered a good test of your competency in the kitchen. For a while I avoided trying it, assuming it would be either too difficult or not even worth the effort. 

Just last week, an Italian cook I work with showed me his method and I thought, is that it? I finally gave it a go myself and I was happy to have been proven wrong. While I can see where risotto gets its reputation for being a great equalizer, the trick to pulling it off is to just be attentive (read: stir NON STOP).

Here's what you need for about 4 people:

- 250g of short grain rice (Arborio)

- Half a white onion, finely chopped

- 1 clove of garlic, minced

- 200ml of dry white wine

- About a litre of chicken stock, heated and left on the back burner

- 35g (or more if you like) of grated Parmesan

- 35g of butter

- Pepper, olive oil

*Begin by lightly sauteing the onion in a mixture of butter and olive oil, just until the onion is translucent

*Add the garlic and saute for another minute

*Drop the rice into the pan and toast with the onion and garlic for a couple minutes until the rice appears clear

*When toasted, deglaze the pan with the white wine and incorporate it into the rice

*As the wine starts to evaporate, slowly add warm stock, about 2 ladles worth

*Here comes the 'hard part' - As the rice cooks with the stock, you want there to be enough liquid in the pan for the rice to cook, but never too much. Only add more stock as the stock in the pan evaporates. By the time the rice is cooked to al dente, you will have used almost a litre of stock. Expect to use at least 750ml. Throughout this period (about 20 minutes) you will need to stir constantly and gently

*When the rice finally reaches desired texture, you can add your Parmesan and fold in the butter. The final product should be moist, but with no extra liquid on the plate. If it's a bit dry, add a small amount of stock. You can now incorporate any other ingredients you'd like to include. Season with a little pepper (you probably won't need salt)

Risotto can be a bit heavy as a side dish, so keep portions small or even serve it as the main. Traditionally, if you're doing a seafood risotto, you'd omit the Parmesan. I added a bit of prosciutto and spinach to mine and served it with crab cakes and sauteed asparagus. If you're feeling really hedonistic, try drizzling some truffle oil on the plate or topping it with truffle shavings!

GG

Breakfast in America... in Paris

Imagine traveling 6000 km to end up working at a good old American diner?

If you're in Paris any time soon, come check me out at Breakfast in America in the Marais. After a couple weeks in Paris, I guarantee you'll be craving a good burger, a big stack of pancakes, or a real milkshake.

GG

Breakfast in America

4 Rue Malher
Paris, 75004
01 42 72 40 21

La Mercerie

I've realized that my Paris restaurant recommendations have been lacking, so here we go.

Living in a land of dainty pastries, soft baguettes, and small savory appetizers, there are a few things I start to miss. The thing I miss the most is a good thick steak à l'Américaine.

I first went to La Mercerie last year on a recommendation and loved it. The atmosphere (and the food for that matter) is almost medieval. The dining room is reminiscent of a Viking lodge - tight and dark with big wooden ceiling beams and tables. The cuts of meat are served on well-used wooden platters and are accompanied by mountains of fries. I think part of the reason I like it so much is because it reminds me of my favorite, and now defunct, steak spot in Toronto - Carman's.

While you can get an entrecôte - a common French flat rib steak, or even a thicker style pavé de boeuf, since you are in France after all, I highly recommend trying the magret de canard, or duck breast. If you're not a fan of duck, it just means that you haven't had good duck. Cooked on a grill, the only hint that you're eating duck breast and not steak is the presence of a fat cap, which you can remove if you're so inclined. Make sure you order your meat saignant or à point - rare or medium rare.

La Mercerie isn't for fancy bistro food (a good friend describes the cooking method for the roast chicken as 'by landmine') but it is the place to get a great, no frills Gallic meal.

Once your lamb shank has been put down, you can still indulge in a bit of dessert. Try the Mont Blanc, or white mountain, which consists of a base of very sweet chestnut purée and is topped with crème fraîche. It may take a couple bites for those who have never had it to acquire the taste, but it's delicious, and one is easily enough for two people to share.

Chestnut purée

As a bonus, La Mercerie is also next door to one of the best bars in Paris, but you'll just have to go to find that out. 

GG

La Mercerie

9 Rue des Canettes

Paris, 75006

01 43 25 31 09