Thursday, September 30, 2010

The French Press

My good friend Michaela and I were chatting recently about the French press. She told me that not only did she have one, but that she'd been really wanting to master it. I suggested that she not only master it but write about it. Here's the result:

On the day that this piece goes to press, coffee drinkers nationwide (that nation being the USA) will raise their lattes, macchiato, and drip brews in celebration of National Coffee Day. From truck stops to college cafeterias, highbrow baristas to amateur home brewers, Americans are crazy about their coffee. In light of this fact, I wish to share with you my recent experimentation with the French press.

For months (years?) this inconspicuous little device has had a home on my kitchen counter. Pushed aside for an opening microwave door, or placed on top of a recipe printout as a paperweight, my French press was more ornamental than functional. Living in the heart of New York City, I am surrounded by amazing coffee shops from which to get my caffeine fix. Until recently, it hadn’t even crossed my mind to actually MAKE a cup chez moi.

After discovering that my single-cup coffee maker from college had met its maker, I turned my attention to the French press - to test it out and share the results. Thus, armed with some basic instruction, I set out to brew some chicory coffee that I had picked up on a trip to New Orleans. Like the press, this coffee had served more of an ornamental purpose (love that retro, yellow tin!).

Then it began. Carefully measuring 3 heaping tablespoons of grounds, I added 12 ounces (4 ounces for each tablespoon) of pre-boiled water (part direction-instructed and part my own know-it-all-ness) until the grounds were saturated. Next, I poked the mixture down with the back of a wooden spoon (fancy equipment keep back!) until a rich froth-like substance formed. I left it to steep with the top in place, the knobbed handle pulled straight up (don’t even think of pressing those grounds yet!). I paced in my kitchen for the suggested 3-5 minutes, however after 3.5 minutes, I was ready to press - the smell was too tantalizing. I steadily pressed the knobbed handle down and watched the grounds separate from the brew. Then, I poured. “Potent!” was what I labeled the creation, even for black, dairy/soy free coffee. “Ground free,” was my next observation, as I wasn’t initially convinced that the stopper would work. “Delicious,” I then remarked, noting both the taste and the smell that mildly engulfed my kitchen.

I felt triumphant, as though I had grown and harvested the beans myself. The physical, hands-on nature of French pressing is infinitely more satisfying than punching a few buttons on a coffee machine. After my second attempt a few days later with some awesome Italian coffee, I found myself equally enthusiastic about the process. This time, I lightened it up with some fresh heavy cream, which made for a cup more suited to my taste.


There you have it, dear reader, my foray into the world of the French press. So dust off that statuesque beauty (it makes for a lousy bookend) and get to brewing. CHEERS!

Michaela Johnson currently lives, eats, and works in New York City.

Thursday, September 23, 2010

The Perfect Grilled Cheese!

Grilled cheese is the classic American sandwich. Of course in its original incarnation, composed of wonder bread, cheese slices, and cooked in a pan, the grilled cheese contained neither cheese nor bread and wasn't even grilled. The beautiful thing about the grilled cheese is that its simple nature makes it super customizable. It's no surprise that like so many other cheap dishes, the grilled cheese has joined the gourmet ranks with restaurants using all manner of fancy cheeses, breads, oils, and ingredients.

For me, the grilled cheese will always remind me of the occasional Sunday lunch as a kid. My mom's were always perfect in my mind, nothing special, just good. Today they're still the perfect Sunday lunch, especially after a particularly long Saturday night.

A perfect grilled cheese really is an art form, and if not done right, it's a little too easy to end up with a cold cheese and carbon sandwich. Here's how to get it right every time.

* Start by warming your pan to just over MEDIUM heat
* Liberally butter (no margarine!) both the pan and one side of one of the pieces of bread all the way to the crust. Let the butter come up to room temperature for easy spreading, or warm it slightly in the pan
* Place the first buttered piece of bread in the pan, and immediately top with cheese. If you're using a lot of hard cheese, it might be a good idea to get a lid on it, but I find that this is usually unnecessary unless you're using too much heat
* As the cheese melts, butter the other piece of bread and assemble your sandwich
* By the time you're ready to flip, it should be almost the perfect color on the bottom
* Continue to cook until golden on both sides! 

Some tips? A grilled cheese shouldn't be healthy. Save the brown bread for turkey sandwiches because it just doesn't caramelize like white. If you want to switch it up, I find that thick challah or brioche work particularly well. You can also try sourdough, but nothing beats a fresh croissant or even French toast grilled cheese if you're feeling particularly gluttonous. Experiment with cheeses, but always remember to grate them or cut them thinly. Soft cheeses will melt faster, so a combination of soft and thinly cut hard cheese is great. Think about flavor too - if you're using a strong cheese like blue or chevre, it might be nice to balance it with a milder cheese like Camembert or brie. In my mind though, nothing works better than a good sharp cheddar. If you're looking to add some other ingredients (basil, bacon, spinach, etc), it's best to cook both pieces of bread at the same time with a little cheese on both. That way the sandwich will stick around the ingredient and wont fall apart when you bite it.


Happy 'grilling',

GG

Wednesday, September 15, 2010

La Grande Epicerie

It's no secret that I've got a weakness for upscale markets - one stop shops for superior local artisanal products and hard to find imports. New York is a haven for these, and Toronto's got a few good ones too. 

In France, the prevailing culinary dogma is one of quality and local freshness - something North Americans are willing to pay extra for. For the most part, 'farm to table' isn't anything special, it's just the way it's done.

That being said, the French love American culture (though they'll never tell you that). Therefore, it goes without saying that in the wealthiest areas of Paris, you're bound to find some pretty amazing shops.

Le Bon Marché, or 'The Good Market', is known as the World's first department store. Officially starting around 1850, today it's a main attraction for shoppers looking for a little something by Louis Vuitton or Chanel. Obviously that can work up quite an appetite, so the natural thing to do is to go next door to the Grande Epicerie.

La Grande Epicerie is the very definition of the upscale market. Being so very French, everything is about image. The store features beautiful displays, which often mirror the theme of the window displays at Le Bon Marché. Special products are one of a kind and often very whimsical - Coca-Cola bottles featuring the silhouette of Karl Lagerfeld, Orangina bottles sold in limited edition bags by Antik Batik, a range of condiments made to look like hair products, Eiffel tower noodles, and Swarovski-encrusted water bottles are not uncommon. Part of the store is dedicated to products of the World, and the American section is comprised of molasses, maple syrup, chocolate chips, barbecue sauce, popcorn, peanut butter, and marshmallow fluff.

Karl Lagerfeld Coca-Cola

Got water?

Selection of jams

Balsamic vinegar - I snapped this after being told to put the camera away or leave

While you're not likely to be doing your weekly grocery shopping there, as many normal products are available elsewhere for a fraction of the price, it's a great place to get gifts for the foodies in your life. To me, the value lies in their mouth-watering prepared foods, beautiful pastries, hard to find ingredients for your dinner parties, and not to mention the browsing potential of the place. After all, who doesn't get some sick pleasure out of checking out bottles of champagne worth thousands of euros and bags of dried morel mushrooms that cost as much as a normal shopping trip.

GG

38 Rue de Sèvres
Paris, 75007
01 44 39 81 00

Monday, September 6, 2010

Nonna's pizza... or is it Yia Yia's?

In keeping with the Italian theme lately, I just scored my good friend's highly guarded pizza recipe. I told him I'd keep it anonymous while putting it online for the 'World' to see. He makes a pretty convincing Italian pizza for a Greek guy. Wait, did the Greeks or the Italians invent pizza? I'm going to stay out of that one...





Here's what you need for 2 pizzas:

-1 bag of dough from your local grocery, if you don't make your own that is
- At least a pint of tomato sauce (homemade of course)
- Quarter white onion, sliced
- Hot Soppressata (50g, sliced)
- Prosciutto (50g, sliced)
- Provolone and mozzarella (1 ball each, shredded)
- Salt, pepper, olive oil
- Mozzarella di bufala (1 ball, sliced)
- Arugula

* Cut the dough your grandmother made with love in half, respectfully
* Sprinkle a bit of flour on the counter top and flatten the dough (thin!) with a roller
* Flour your ceramic pizza stone and lay the dough on it. Yes, an oven pan will do, I guess
* Let the dough rise in the cold oven for 40-50 minutes
* Remove the dough, spread a desired amount of sauce onto it and season with salt and pepper
* Cover with a desired amount of shredded cheese, onions, and soppressata
* Bake at 375 until the dough is cooked but before the cheese starts to brown too much
* Remove the pizza, shut off the oven, add the mozzarella slices and throw it back in until the cheese has melted
* Take it out again, add arugula, prosciutto, and a sprinkling of olive oil (if there's not enough oil from the meat)


Bellissimo! How do you say that in Greek?

GG

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