Showing posts with label Chef Spot. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Chef Spot. Show all posts

Thursday, September 30, 2010

The French Press

My good friend Michaela and I were chatting recently about the French press. She told me that not only did she have one, but that she'd been really wanting to master it. I suggested that she not only master it but write about it. Here's the result:

On the day that this piece goes to press, coffee drinkers nationwide (that nation being the USA) will raise their lattes, macchiato, and drip brews in celebration of National Coffee Day. From truck stops to college cafeterias, highbrow baristas to amateur home brewers, Americans are crazy about their coffee. In light of this fact, I wish to share with you my recent experimentation with the French press.

For months (years?) this inconspicuous little device has had a home on my kitchen counter. Pushed aside for an opening microwave door, or placed on top of a recipe printout as a paperweight, my French press was more ornamental than functional. Living in the heart of New York City, I am surrounded by amazing coffee shops from which to get my caffeine fix. Until recently, it hadn’t even crossed my mind to actually MAKE a cup chez moi.

After discovering that my single-cup coffee maker from college had met its maker, I turned my attention to the French press - to test it out and share the results. Thus, armed with some basic instruction, I set out to brew some chicory coffee that I had picked up on a trip to New Orleans. Like the press, this coffee had served more of an ornamental purpose (love that retro, yellow tin!).

Then it began. Carefully measuring 3 heaping tablespoons of grounds, I added 12 ounces (4 ounces for each tablespoon) of pre-boiled water (part direction-instructed and part my own know-it-all-ness) until the grounds were saturated. Next, I poked the mixture down with the back of a wooden spoon (fancy equipment keep back!) until a rich froth-like substance formed. I left it to steep with the top in place, the knobbed handle pulled straight up (don’t even think of pressing those grounds yet!). I paced in my kitchen for the suggested 3-5 minutes, however after 3.5 minutes, I was ready to press - the smell was too tantalizing. I steadily pressed the knobbed handle down and watched the grounds separate from the brew. Then, I poured. “Potent!” was what I labeled the creation, even for black, dairy/soy free coffee. “Ground free,” was my next observation, as I wasn’t initially convinced that the stopper would work. “Delicious,” I then remarked, noting both the taste and the smell that mildly engulfed my kitchen.

I felt triumphant, as though I had grown and harvested the beans myself. The physical, hands-on nature of French pressing is infinitely more satisfying than punching a few buttons on a coffee machine. After my second attempt a few days later with some awesome Italian coffee, I found myself equally enthusiastic about the process. This time, I lightened it up with some fresh heavy cream, which made for a cup more suited to my taste.


There you have it, dear reader, my foray into the world of the French press. So dust off that statuesque beauty (it makes for a lousy bookend) and get to brewing. CHEERS!

Michaela Johnson currently lives, eats, and works in New York City.

Wednesday, August 18, 2010

Breakfast in America... in Paris

Imagine traveling 6000 km to end up working at a good old American diner?

If you're in Paris any time soon, come check me out at Breakfast in America in the Marais. After a couple weeks in Paris, I guarantee you'll be craving a good burger, a big stack of pancakes, or a real milkshake.


GG

4 Rue Malher
Paris, 75004
01 42 72 40 21

Friday, June 18, 2010

Down but not out in Paris

It's been a bit of a stressful few days here in Île-de-France. Between looking for both digs and gigs, I haven't had much time to take it all in.

My wonderful copine - and Eternal Intern - Ophelia helped me take my mind off it all by booking me a cooking class at L'atelier des Chefs. If you're in a city with one of these, I highly recommend checking it out. If you're in Toronto, try Bonnie Stern. On the West coast? The London Chef.

I was the only one in the class with restaurant experience and I still had a blast. Classes are great for folks who love to cook but may not have the technique know-how to properly execute recipes they come across. Plus they're just fun. Nothing too fancy, the class I took stressed simple, tried and true cooking methods while working with easy to find ingredients.

In an hour, we made (and of course, ate) a really quick and easy filet mignon de porc à la sauge, purée de carottes beurre noisette , and a delicious tiramisu aux griottes et zestes d'orange.

Tiramisu with cherries and orange zest

I'm really looking forward to getting back into a kitchen. It'll also be great to have access to all sorts of ingredients I can use to develop some top secret GG products in the coming months! All very hush hush stuff.

Anyway, time to get back out there with the CVs!

GG

Friday, May 14, 2010

Lakeview Revisited

As much as I love gourmet, barbecue will always be my ultimate - and unapologetic - favorite. If my next meal had to be my last, it would be smoked. When I say barbecue, I'm not talking about hot dogs, I'm talking about slow-cooking: ribs, brisket, and the favorite - pulled pork. My quest to find the best pulled pork in the city is what originally brought me to Lakeview, but other devilish items brought me back.

After some brief correspondence with Derek Newall, the executive chef of Lakeview, I was invited in for a chat. It turns out that Derek and I both worked at Urban Restaurant in Toronto. I was a prep cook, peeling shrimp for hours, and he was an executive sous chef, working alongside executive chef Robert Mutch. When I was there, Urban had great items on the menu, including a beef steak sourced from a Mennonite farm, and aged for 28 days.

Derek Newall

Derek began his training at George Brown in Toronto. Growing unsatisfied with the program, he went on to cut his teeth at Splendido under David Lee. Derek feels that he did most of his learning there, citing a change in staff that allowed him to have greater creative control, while working with noted pastry chef Charmaine Baan. A source of pride for Derek is his hand in bringing Splendido to #1 in Toronto Life during his time there. No rookie, he's also worked at The Bloor Street Diner/Eatertainment, and MEATing at the Bottom Line.

At Lakeview, Derek enjoys the downtime that a 24-hour restaurant provides, "It let's me experiment and do more from scratch". When I arrived at the restaurant, Derek was half-way through a tasting with the owners. He's currently developing menu items, one of which I managed to get a sneak sample of.

Derek is genuinely excited for the ambitious future of Lakeview, which includes the opening of a satellite kitchen, which will function as a market and catering prep area for the restaurant and the public. He's thrilled to be able to design the kitchen from the ground up. The kitchen's revolutionary scanning and organizing system will help him "facilitate the inventory side of the business, which is always at odds with the creative side". The kitchen will allow Derek to indulge in a favorite aspect of his work - shopping for random items and getting the creative process going. However, like a true chef, his favorite thing to cook is "whatever uses up the leftovers".

Next time you're at Lakeview, Derek recommends the Ossington Massive breakfast, the Lakeview burger, and the Poutine Lakeview: with sweet potato and fresh cut fries, cheese curds, peameal bacon, garlic onion crunch, sauteed mushrooms, and house gravy.

So the new menu item? An evil genius eggs benedict, consisting of a cheddar cheese biscuit, topped with a corn flake crusted chicken filet, poached egg, and country gravy. You're going to want to try this.


GG

Thursday, April 29, 2010

The London Chef


Last night I had the pleasure of attending a private cookery class with The London Chef. Now based out of Victoria, B.C., The London Chef has been Rick Stein's Commis Chef, and a Sous Chef at Poissonnerie de L'Avenue in London. He has opened two restaurants, including a Fishworks location in London. In Victoria, The London Chef is teaching at various cookery schools, including Thrifty's Tuscany Village and French Mint. 

It's been a couple years since I've worked in a restaurant, and I had almost forgotten how great it is to watch a good chef working in person - he navigated the kitchen with Food Network calibre skills. Of course, the fact that the kitchen happened to be outfitted like Kitchen Stadium didn't hurt either. Overall, it made me want to get back into a restaurant. Something to consider in Paris...

His demonstrations and tips included knife sharpening techniques, how to properly filet a fish, when to season meat, what rice to use in a risotto, and how to dice efficiently. He even flaunted a skill that would make most home chefs nervous - how to dispatch a lobster humanely with Bear Grylls-like precision. His knowledge of how to handle various ingredients was nothing short of professional, and I left with pages of notes. As you can see below, the food was pretty good too.


Pan seared diver scallop on cauliflower and vanilla puree, with crisp leeks, beurre noisette foam and a balsamic reduction infused with smoked bacon and garlic


Sophie's special crisp cheese sandwich, served with fresh mayonnaise and cherry tomato ketchup


Classic white risotto, topped with sauteed asparagus and fresh greens


A melange of East coast shellfish in a Marseille inspired spiced cream broth


It's always a pleasure to be in a home with an impressive, well-stocked wine cellar - strong self control required 


Maintained at a strict 54 degrees, the cellar contained wines arranged by type and region


Swordfish steak charred with black pepper and sea salt on crushed new potatoes with salsa verde (London Chef specialty) and caramelized lemon


Pan roasted fillets of gilthead sea bream on a fennel, sweet onion and lemon zest confit with sauce vierge and herb salad

The paired wines were all Ontario based, and included bottles from StratusTawse, and Le Clos Jordanne.

That's the kind of night I could easily get used to.

GG

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