Better scrambled eggs

Eggs are a bit of a funny thing for me. Sometimes I love them and sometimes I can't bear the thought of eating them. What's great about them though is how many ways there are to prepare them (think Forrest Gump, just for eggs). Even better, MOST are pretty easy to do. Anyone can cook an egg right? That's what I thought before the last time I prepared myself a boiled egg as hard as rock, or worse yet, scrambled eggs as dry as the desert.

Like with 'undercooked' steak, I used to be really picky about my scrambled eggs not being too wet. Enlightening was the moment when I realized that I would not keel over after consuming raw steak or wet eggs, and that I actually preferred them this way.

The classic way to do scrambled eggs is in the pan. It can be done well if cooked on low heat, but unless you prefer those rubbery dry pellets, why not try the French way?

The bain-marie, or water bath, is a great way to heat foods that are sensitive to heat such as chocolate. It is an indirect method that involves boiling water under a bowl. You may know it as a water bath or double boiler, but for eggs, the improvised bowl method works well.

* Begin by bringing water to a boil in a pot

* Once boiling, turn down the heat and place a large glass or steel bowl directly on the pot

* Crack your eggs into the bowl and begin whisking

* Allow them to come together by whisking/stirring regularly but not overly (you'll see it)

* Once the eggs have started to come together, take them off the heat, fold in some cold butter, season with salt and pepper and top with chives!
* You can at this point also add any ingredients (salmon, sauteed mushrooms, etc) as well as a small splash of cream or creme fresh if you want it extra creamy

GG

The Real Caesar

Even though I'm not the biggest fan of tableside service, from time to time I get a real craving for a good tableside Caesar salad (minus the show). Despite the hefty price you might pay for one at a restaurant, it's actually a pretty easy thing to make at home, with ingredients you may already have kicking around.

Of course real Caesar dressing has nothing to do with the creamy bottled stuff, and it also has nothing to do with traditional Italian food. It was however invented by an Italian-born Mexican/American restaurateur named Caesar Cardini. Apparently the story goes that the salad was concocted on the fly during a busy service when his restaurant was running short on supplies. I think he was on to something.

Here's what you need:

- 3/4 cups of olive oil

- A splash of Worcestershire sauce

- Teaspoon or so of Dijon mustard

- 2 tablespoons of red wine vinegar

- 1-2 cloves of garlic

- 1-3 anchovy fillets as desired (the original recipe may not have contained them)

- The juice of 1 lemon

- Head of romaine lettuce, rinsed and torn coarsely

- 1 egg yolk (coddled if you prefer - boil egg for 1 minute before cracking)

- Grated Parmesan cheese

- Salt and pepper

* In a large wooden (preferably) bowl, grind the anchovy fillets and garlic together with the back of a spoon

* When almost in a paste, add the Dijon, red wine vinegar, Worcestershire, lemon juice, yolk, and mix well with a whisk

* Next, slowly add the oil while whisking so that the mixture doesn't separate

* Season with black pepper and a very small pinch of salt (if needed), and add grated Parmesan

* Add the romaine leaves to the bowl, mix gently with salad spoons, and top with more Parmesan
* For some great homemade croutons, begin by cutting thin slices of a day-old baguette. Let them dry completely on a baking sheet and then rub the pieces with a garlic clove. Drizzle with olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and bake until lightly browned

Make your salad right before serving... tableside

GG

The Grilled Cheese's British Relative

During a recent trip to London, I had the pleasure of being invited to the Wolseley restaurant by some good friends. Built in 1921, the building was originally the home of the now defunct Wolseley Motor Company's car showroom. The rich (for lack of a better word) atmosphere, featuring large stone pillars, gold accents, and a grand staircase, really brings to mind the confidence that used to exist in the economy!

This lavishness may ultimately have contributed to Wolseley's downfall, but the space remained occupied by Barclays bank until finally becoming the Wolseley restaurant in 2003.

Despite the surroundings, the sad thing about all of this was that I was mostly just looking forward to finally trying the open-faced British relative of grilled cheese, the Welsh Rarebit... and for pudding no less!

My friend was also kind enough to pass along a recipe, which I think comes from Fergus Henderson. Here's what you need:

- 1 tablespoon of butter

- 1 tbs flour

- 1 tsp mustard powder

- 1/2 tsp cayenne pepper

- 200ml Guinness

- 2 tbs Worcestershire sauce

- 450g strong grated cheddar cheese

- 4 large pieces of toast

* In a pan, melt the butter and add the flour to make a roux

* Continue to cook on low heat until it starts to brown slightly

* Add the mustard powder, cayenne, Guinness and Worcestershire

* Slowly incorporate the cheese until it is all mixed evenly

* Remove the mixture and let it set in a shallow dish

* You can now spread the mixture on toast and carefully broil it in the oven until brown

Looking for a French offering? Try the croque-monsieur!

GG

Rose Water?

When I first saw the delicious little French macarons at Ladurée in Paris, I was immediately taken by their rainbow display of flavors. All the usual suspects were present: chocolate, vanilla, strawberry, caramel, but one flavor in particular stood out: rose.

While I was aware that rose was often used in perfumes and occasionally in confectioneries like Turkish delight (which I also love), I had no idea that it was also used in baking. The flavor was so light and fragrant that it inspired me to investigate!

I wasn’t surprised to find out that rose water has been used in food for hundreds if not thousands of years in the Middle East and Asia and that it has cultural and religious significance for many. The water itself is a by-product of the production of rose oil, which is primarily used in perfumes and cosmetics.

After coming across a few recipes, I decided to try making some myself. Rose water and syrup can be a great addition to tea, and desserts like ice cream, rice pudding, crème brûlée, whipped cream, etc.

Here’s what you need to make a simple rose water or syrup:

- A large stainless steel pot with a rounded lid

- A brick (yes, a brick) or a Pyrex loaf pan

- The equivalent of a bag of ice

- About 4 or 5 cups of fresh, rinsed rose petals (depending on the size of your pot), slightly crushed or chopped

- A small bowl or ramekin

* Begin by placing the brick or Pyrex dish in the center of the pot

* Distribute the petals around the brick and cover with water to the level of the brick or higher

* Place the small bowl on top of the brick and place the lid upside-down on the pot

* Bring the water to a gentle boil and cover the lid of the pot with ice

* As the water condenses it should drip down the lid and collect in the bowl

* Check it every so often and collect what is your rose water!

* You can now make simple syrup by adding sugar (and more water if necessary) and reducing by simmering gently in a pan

Finish with a little red food coloring if you'd like to give it the rose look, but any other color would taste as sweet…

GG

Happy Holidays from the Global Gourmand!

Thank you to everyone who's been following me this year! Your input and support is greatly appreciated! 

May your 2011 be a happy year of culinary experimentation!

Galeries Lafayette - Paris

GG

The advantages of working full-time

So I recently started a new full-time gig. Despite the obvious bonus of a regular paycheck, I haven't had as much the time as I'd like to experiment with recipes, find new ingredients, and so forth. C'est la vie right?

One unexpected advantage however is that the girl has really stepped up to the plate so to speak in the dinner department. An occasional cook, mostly she's infamous for her specialty of cold pasta sauce on capellini. Originally I thought I was being clever when I challenged her to make 3 consecutive meals in 'pie-form' (basically hoping to secure 3 nights of dinner). Not only did she do it, but she's continued to cook a few times a week... without incitement!

Although it's pretty sweet to come home to a cooked meal once in a while, I fear that if I don't get back in there that I'll soon be writing for her. Here's a streamlined coq au vin she whipped up last week. I know, I don't get it either.

Here's what you need:

- 1 bottle of red wine (Burgundy)

- 1 medium onion, chopped

- 4 cloves garlic, minced

- A handful of button mushrooms, chopped

- A piece (or 2) of chicken per person - thighs or drumsticks, with skin

- 5 or 6 pieces of bacon, chopped

- All purpose flour

- About 1/2 a liter of chicken stock

- Thyme, parsley (fresh if possible)

- Tablespoon of butter

- Olive oil

- Salt and pepper

* In a plastic bag, marinate the chicken in enough wine to cover the meat. This can be done overnight or even a couple hours before cooking

* In a large pan or dutch over, saute the bacon until crispy, set aside

* In the same pan, cook the chicken skin side down until browned, set aside

* Saute the onion and garlic until translucent, add about a tablespoon of flour and brown lightly

* Deglaze the pan with a good splash of wine, and add pinches of thyme, parsley, salt and pepper

* Once simmering, add the marinating liquid with equal parts chicken stock, return the chicken to the pot, and simmer until the sauce thickens. Like with boeuf bourguignon, if you find that the liquid is evaporating too quickly, reduce the heat or cover the pot

* In a separate pan, saute the button mushrooms with a bit of butter or olive oil and set aside

* Towards the end of cooking, add the mushrooms and bacon to the mix and simmer further

* You'll probably need to simmer for an hour or so, turning the chicken occasionally

Not bad for a Wednesday night!

GG

Mashed Potatoes à la Française

Mentioning Aligot in my last post really got my thinking about it. When people ask me what about French cuisine they should experience, Aligot is definitely right up at the top of the list. It's also one of the dishes that I insist on my visiting friends trying. In the Auvergne region of France, Aligot often prepared in huge pots and sold in town.

So what is Aligot exactly?

It's basically mashed potatoes, but with a delicious twist. These potatoes are pureed with crème fraiche, garlic, and Tomme cheese to become dense, silky, and flavorful. Aligot is the right consistency when it can literally be cut with a knife.

Here's what you need:

- 2 pounds of potatoes, peeled and cut

- 2 or 3 cloves of garlic, mashed or minced finely

- 1/2 a stick of unsalted butter

- 2 cups of crème fraiche - thicker and less sour than sour cream - can be made at home with buttermilk and heavy cream

- Tomme cheese in thin slices, about half of the amount of potatoes - can be substituted for Cantal, or other semi-hard strong cheeses

- 1 cup, approximately, of skim or 1% milk

- Salt and pepper

* Boil the potatoes in salted water until fork tender, drain and return to the pot

* Mash the potatoes on low heat until fluffy with the butter, garlic, and salt and pepper to taste

* Incorporate the crème fraiche and mix evenly

* Raise the heat slightly and add the Tomme, a little at a time, until it's all mixed and melted evenly

* Stir regularly while trying not to break up the cheese strands. If the mix becomes too thick, add milk, a few tablespoons at a time

* The final product will be smooth like mashed potatoes and slightly stringy, serve immediately!

For a traditional Auvergne dish, pair it with sausage, duck confit, or steak, and garnish with parsley or chives.

GG