La Mercerie

I've realized that my Paris restaurant recommendations have been lacking, so here we go.

Living in a land of dainty pastries, soft baguettes, and small savory appetizers, there are a few things I start to miss. The thing I miss the most is a good thick steak à l'Américaine.

I first went to La Mercerie last year on a recommendation and loved it. The atmosphere (and the food for that matter) is almost medieval. The dining room is reminiscent of a Viking lodge - tight and dark with big wooden ceiling beams and tables. The cuts of meat are served on well-used wooden platters and are accompanied by mountains of fries. I think part of the reason I like it so much is because it reminds me of my favorite, and now defunct, steak spot in Toronto - Carman's.

While you can get an entrecôte - a common French flat rib steak, or even a thicker style pavé de boeuf, since you are in France after all, I highly recommend trying the magret de canard, or duck breast. If you're not a fan of duck, it just means that you haven't had good duck. Cooked on a grill, the only hint that you're eating duck breast and not steak is the presence of a fat cap, which you can remove if you're so inclined. Make sure you order your meat saignant or à point - rare or medium rare.

La Mercerie isn't for fancy bistro food (a good friend describes the cooking method for the roast chicken as 'by landmine') but it is the place to get a great, no frills Gallic meal.

Once your lamb shank has been put down, you can still indulge in a bit of dessert. Try the Mont Blanc, or white mountain, which consists of a base of very sweet chestnut purée and is topped with crème fraîche. It may take a couple bites for those who have never had it to acquire the taste, but it's delicious, and one is easily enough for two people to share.

Chestnut purée

As a bonus, La Mercerie is also next door to one of the best bars in Paris, but you'll just have to go to find that out. 

GG

La Mercerie

9 Rue des Canettes

Paris, 75006

01 43 25 31 09